The route follows the east ridge easily (Fr2b-3b) to the top of Klein Simeler. There are barely any bolts to start with but they start to increase in numbers by the time you reach the section where you down climb (the guidebook warns aginst abseling down here). Abseil (20m) from the top of Klein Simeler and continue across a ridge to reach an exposed move round onto the main face. Traverse acrsoss the main face for a little way to reach the last 2 pitches (4b, 3b) which lead to the summit of Gross Simelistock.
Descent: There is an awkward scramble down from the top to reach three 15m abseils, alternatively there is a bolt at the top which you could abseil off. Scramble a little way to reach two 20m abseils and then the guidebook suggests that you follow cairns to scramble down, however there is another abseil station which would be advisable with 50m ropes to avoid a particularly tricky scarmble section. More scrambling leads to a final 20m abseil much lower down.
Descent: There is an awkward scramble down from the top to reach three 15m abseils, alternatively there is a bolt at the top which you could abseil off. Scramble a little way to reach two 20m abseils and then the guidebook suggests that you follow cairns to scramble down, however there is another abseil station which would be advisable with 50m ropes to avoid a particularly tricky scarmble section. More scrambling leads to a final 20m abseil much lower down.
Ticklists
Grossen and Rébuffat's Bernese Oberland: The 100 Most Beautiful Tours , Top quality Alps under 4000m
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| John Cuthbert | 17 Sep, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Seriously exciting venture, especially solo. The Englehorner area felt quite intimidating, with plenty of exposure throughout the route and not the most friction positive slab action. Treat it like a trad day. The raps are super well equipped, but as for the long descent scramble to the final rappel, the kindest thing that could be said is that it is not ‘Plaisir’. This is serious terrain, and although well marked, it’s pretty loose with huge fall exposure. I also got peppered multiple times by rockfall from above. The walk in to the hut from Rosenlaui went in a modest 1hour 20, and everyone seems to go this way. The sun also doesn’t come round to 1030am in Sept, and it’s best to be high by then. Thereafter it gets well hot. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Seriously exciting venture, especially solo. The Englehorner area felt quite intimidating, with plenty of exposure throughout the route and not the most friction positive slab action. Treat it like a trad day. The raps are super well equipped, but as for the long descent scramble to the final rappel, the kindest thing that could be said is that it is not ‘Plaisir’. This is serious terrain, and although well marked, it’s pretty loose with huge fall exposure. I also got peppered multiple times by rockfall from above. The walk in to the hut from Rosenlaui went in a modest 1hour 20, and everyone seems to go this way. The sun also doesn’t come round to 1030am in Sept, and it’s best to be high by then. Thereafter it gets well hot. |
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Route of Interest
Traverse of the Blüemlisalp
Grade: AD ***
(The Blüemlisalp Massif)