Restricted Access

The Beeston Tor caves at the right-hand side of the crag are an important archaeological site and the landowner (The National Trust) do not want any disturbance to the caves themselves. The Trust has requested that if climbers at the crag notice any suspicious activity around the caves (eg digging, metal detecting, carrying equipment or bags to/from the caves etc), that they call 01335 350503 and leave a message with any details.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies from Flying Doctor The Thorn to Central Wall / Cleo's Mood inclusive (depending on which guidebook you are using).

Rockfax Description
Good fun and almost a sport route at about 6b+. Climb a groove right of the ivy then move left to a hole and twin threads. Make some hard moves up past more threads to a lower-off on the traverse line of The Spider. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Strip back any new growth on the ivy as you go past as it can hide a foothold which makes getting across to the jug handle a fair bit easier!

FA. Gary Gibson 1983.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Fiend 19 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Where's the French grade option? F6b+, I reckon - features some pretty steep and stiff pulls on the pockets, and fairly sustained for it's height. Worth 2 stars as everyone seems to think.
βeta?
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βeta: Where's the French grade option? F6b+, I reckon - features some pretty steep and stiff pulls on the pockets, and fairly sustained for it's height. Worth 2 stars as everyone seems to think.
andi turner 23 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Effectively a clip up, and a really good route. The pint pot handle IS still there! I don't know where they got the idea it had gone from?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Effectively a clip up, and a really good route. The pint pot handle IS still there! I don't know where they got the idea it had gone from?
Ropeboy 24 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: You just need 6 quickdraws for this, the threads seem to have been recently replaced, but hard to get to the foot of the climb.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: You just need 6 quickdraws for this, the threads seem to have been recently replaced, but hard to get to the foot of the climb.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Beeston Tor

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 25
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 25
Votes cast 24
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Swan

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Roaches Lower Tier)

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