The Beeston Tor caves at the right-hand side of the crag are an important archaeological site and the landowner (The National Trust) do not want any disturbance to the caves themselves. The Trust has requested that if climbers at the crag notice any suspicious activity around the caves (eg digging, metal detecting, carrying equipment or bags to/from the caves etc), that they call 01335 350503 and leave a message with any details.
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction applies from Flying Doctor / The Thorn to Central Wall / Cleo's Mood inclusive (depending on which guidebook you are using).
Rockfax Description
Approach up Nocturne. From the ledge, head left to a diagonal break/crack then climb direct up the excellent pocketed wall (threadable surprises aplenty) to pass right of the ivy and escape into the Ivy Gash. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
1) 4c, 18m. Move right along the ledge of Nocturne to a stance.
2) 5b, 20m. Head left to a diagonal break/crack then climb direct up the excellent pocketed wall (surprises a-plenty) to pass right of the ivy and escape into The Ivy Gash.
FA. Dave Jones R.Cope 1978.
The Peak: Past and Present , Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution , Ultimate E1 ticklist , Soft Touches , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs , Dunc's ticklist
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
JMarkW | 4 Feb, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Good climbing and I thought the threads were okay, note the tip in the guide about coat hangers and cord - very useful. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Good climbing and I thought the threads were okay, note the tip in the guide about coat hangers and cord - very useful. |
||||
Chris the Tall | 5 Nov, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Placing the threads is the hardest part, closely followed by trusting them. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Placing the threads is the hardest part, closely followed by trusting them. |
||||
Si dH | 13 Oct, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: I thought the gear was utterly shit for the most part. Most of the threads are too thin and nowhere near strong enough to hold a fall - I ripped one through (about 1cm across) just with friction and a small static force at the belay the orute before I did this and so refused to trust them. Sideways nuts are also very dodgy because the rock is a bit friable and wears away around them. Great climbing though. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I thought the gear was utterly shit for the most part. Most of the threads are too thin and nowhere near strong enough to hold a fall - I ripped one through (about 1cm across) just with friction and a small static force at the belay the orute before I did this and so refused to trust them. Sideways nuts are also very dodgy because the rock is a bit friable and wears away around them. Great climbing though. |
||||
John Alcock | 31 May, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Good fun, good gear. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Good fun, good gear. |
||||
Ropeboy | 24 Oct, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Very pleasant, take plenty of threads for enjoyably fiddly gear. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Very pleasant, take plenty of threads for enjoyably fiddly gear. |
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Hen Cloud)