Restricted Access
The whole Eglwyseg escarpment is both a Site Of Special Scientific Interest. This means that any deliberate or reckless damage or disturbance to the features of the site (inc. to nesting birds, vegetation clearance or drilling) could be regarded as a criminal act.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 February to 15 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Restrictions normally apply from the route "Black & Blue" to the far south side of the crag ("Freshly Dug") inclusive - all routes between and including these routes are usually restricted from Feb 15th until July 15th. Look out for marker posts on the cliff base to confirm the restrictions. All routes on the right hand side of Nemesis wall sector and all of Dawn Buttress sector are affected by this restriction.
Rockfax Description
A fine addition straight up the centre of the wall using a high hanging arete and with a super-exposed roof finale. Sustained despite two good rest spots. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
New bolts between Manic Mechanic and Smokin' Gun, finishing direct over the big final roof. The first half shares ground with MM and SG, before a new finish.
November 2013: No longer possible to climb as a sport route, 2 consecutive bolts on the tough but superb hanging fin have been removed.
Gary Gibson.
Ticklists
North Wales 7b and 7b+ starfest! , Clwyd Limestone *** Routes
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Craig Arthur
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I Punched Judy First
Grade: 7b+ ***
(Dinbren Crags)