Restricted Access

The crag is owned and managed by Natural England and located in the Derbyshire Dales National Nature Reserve.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

2024 - From 29th February onwards the restriction is in place for the whole crag due to nesting Peregrines (and Ravens). If possible the restriction will be reduced once the Peregrine's nest site can be confirmed. Please check back here for further updates.

46m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
1) 5a, 22m. Start at a shallow groove to the left of the toe of the buttress. Climb this to enter the awkward left-facing groove above. Follow the continuation groove to the terrace and a belay.
2) 4c, 24m. Follow Mealy Bugs, but once in the scoop, traverse round the arete and finish up the wide crack that lurks there. This is awkward to start but soon eases. © Rockfax

FA. Bob Dearman, Rod Brown 1965.

Ticklists

Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs

Feedback

User Date Notes
Alkis 19 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: I can deal with polish, I can deal with loose rock and I can deal with vegetation. All three at the same time? No. The climb, in its current state, is awful. It could be a significant effort to clean.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I can deal with polish, I can deal with loose rock and I can deal with vegetation. All three at the same time? No. The climb, in its current state, is awful. It could be a significant effort to clean.
Jon Stewart 4 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Not sure, but I think either the description or the grade is wrong here. On the second pitch, I went left of the steep groove, which apart from looking about 5b was covered in bird poo. This followed an obvious line (Mealybugs) and led to a step right to the peg. On Peak Rock gives the second pitch 5b (presumably up the steep groove described here), and I can't see how this could be downgraded to 4c.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not sure, but I think either the description or the grade is wrong here. On the second pitch, I went left of the steep groove, which apart from looking about 5b was covered in bird poo. This followed an obvious line (Mealybugs) and led to a step right to the peg. On Peak Rock gives the second pitch 5b (presumably up the steep groove described here), and I can't see how this could be downgraded to 4c.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 22
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 20
Votes cast 19
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Ground Up
Redpoint
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Mermaid's Ridge

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Kinder Downfall)

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