8m.

Rockfax Description
8m. The centre of the slab to a move right at half height and a delicate finish. The start is bold but the smeary upper slab is protected by large cams in the break. © Rockfax

FA. Andrew Woodward 1977.

Ticklists

BMC staffordshire slab exam , Best slab climbs of the UK , The Roaches - Routes Graded List , Hardish grit routes that have good gear but aren't staminafests , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , The Roaches Skyline 'E' challenge , 3 Star Graded , Ultimate E3 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , James' Winter Grit ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Slab Dreams

Feedback

User Date Notes
Jus 19 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Christ I loved this route. Proper awesome smeary wonderfulness, it felt so good. Best slab route I've done in ages.
βeta?
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βeta: Christ I loved this route. Proper awesome smeary wonderfulness, it felt so good. Best slab route I've done in ages.
Aly 22 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: One of the most over-rated routes around, hardly worth 3 stars.
βeta?
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βeta: One of the most over-rated routes around, hardly worth 3 stars.
Andrew Barker 20 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Awesome route, felt a bit commiting rocking up to the break, then had to have my large cam thrown up to me as the break was fatter than I thought! Top moves were fantastic high and insecure rockovers. Less fantastic was the fact that I got a cam caught in the pull loop on the back of my left boot while rocking up! I couldn't move up and thought the only way was down. Luckily I calmed down and bent my leg a little more so it unhooked itself, then climbed to the top and swore my head off in relief!
βeta?
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βeta: Awesome route, felt a bit commiting rocking up to the break, then had to have my large cam thrown up to me as the break was fatter than I thought! Top moves were fantastic high and insecure rockovers. Less fantastic was the fact that I got a cam caught in the pull loop on the back of my left boot while rocking up! I couldn't move up and thought the only way was down. Luckily I calmed down and bent my leg a little more so it unhooked itself, then climbed to the top and swore my head off in relief!
Andy Clarke 27 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Lovely route. Don't be put off if your foot slips when testing the crucial smear. It's much better when you weight it properly.
βeta?
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βeta: Lovely route. Don't be put off if your foot slips when testing the crucial smear. It's much better when you weight it properly.
Ropeboy 20 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A really good E3, one of the best I've climbed for a while. As recommended above LARGE friends req'd 3.5 and 4 best. The moves from the break are a bit smeary and balancy and lovely.
βeta?
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βeta: A really good E3, one of the best I've climbed for a while. As recommended above LARGE friends req'd 3.5 and 4 best. The moves from the break are a bit smeary and balancy and lovely.
FedUp 28 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Yeah large cams protect! Longish fall from the crux but deffo not a solo. E3 5c perfect grade. fantastic!
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βeta: Yeah large cams protect! Longish fall from the crux but deffo not a solo. E3 5c perfect grade. fantastic!
Katya 1 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Bog Standard grit E3. Good gear in the break, but LARGE (3/4) cams protect, not small as it says in the new Western Grit...
βeta?
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βeta: Bog Standard grit E3. Good gear in the break, but LARGE (3/4) cams protect, not small as it says in the new Western Grit...
philhilo 7 Apr, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Gear seems spot on to me any number of freinds in the break, no deck out potential. Quality route
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βeta: Gear seems spot on to me any number of freinds in the break, no deck out potential. Quality route
Paz 14 Oct, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: I slipped off on to the half height gear, but I don't think it's exactly death to solo. The slide took so long I could have read the paper.
βeta?
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βeta: I slipped off on to the half height gear, but I don't think it's exactly death to solo. The slide took so long I could have read the paper.
Robo 12 Jul, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Hey Jon, does that mean if I solo it in wellies and mittens, carrying your mum on my back it gets E10???
βeta?
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βeta: Hey Jon, does that mean if I solo it in wellies and mittens, carrying your mum on my back it gets E10???

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Style of Ascent
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Route of Interest
Hunky Dory

Grade: E3 6a ***
(Roaches Lower Tier)

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