Rockfax Description
(The West Ridge) The continuation to Vestveggen is reached by a long easy scramble to arrive at blocks where the ridge steepens.
1) N6. The crux - a wide and sustained crack - big cams useful. 2) and 3) N3. Continue more easily for 60m to a steep crack.
4) N6-. Climb the crack but traverse right after about 15m (continuing direct is harder - N7).
5) and 6) N5. More cracks and corners lead to an exit rightwards through a hole. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
("The West Ridge") After having climbed the West face or the North-west ridge or possible having traversed the ledge system on the north face, as the first ascensionists did, you will still need to top out Stetind to gain the Normal route and the descent.
1. 2-300 m. Scramble up to, and up behind some large boulders beneath an obvious wide hand crack.
2. 6, 55m. Start in a short corner before moving left out to the widening hand crack. A large cam is good to have for those not totally confident on fist cracks. The first ascensionists used large wooden wedges.
3. 3, 75 m. Scramble upwards to the huge ledge under the second head wall.
4. 6- or 6+, 60 m. Climb the wall, using a partially hidden crack out to the right, or climb the harder, more aesthetic wide crack in the corner to the left.
5. 5-, 60 m. Gain the corner up towards the steep hanging blocks beneath the summit.
6. 3, 20 m Sneak out the tunnel to the right then across a ledge and left onto the summit plateau.
(FFA Lundahl/Selin 1980)
A. N?ss, B. Walther 1937.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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ThunderBeest | 10 Aug, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Take some small cams and wires for the protection of the first pitch as it's a bit cheeky and sandy. For the upper part one #2, two #3, one #4. Fists and forearms fit in well. No real off-width. The 6- pitch is slabby and exposed if you go out to the right. Next time I would instead take the small crack on the left side. Said to be a 6. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Take some small cams and wires for the protection of the first pitch as it's a bit cheeky and sandy. For the upper part one #2, two #3, one #4. Fists and forearms fit in well. No real off-width. The 6- pitch is slabby and exposed if you go out to the right. Next time I would instead take the small crack on the left side. Said to be a 6. |
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Grade: n6 ***
(Stetind)