Rockfax Description
12m. A powerful start and a technical groove (pull out right as soon as you can) culminate in an insecure and smeary reach for the top. On the final crucial section, the gear is a little too far away for comfort. Low in the grade though harder for the short. © Rockfax
FA. Jonny Woodward 1977.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Western Grit: Top 50 , The Roaches - Routes Graded List , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , World Graded List , The Roaches Skyline 'E' challenge , Peak Rock/14/Gritstone After the Gold Rush , Caff's 100 Ace E5s , Ultimate E5 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza , Definitive *** Peak Grit , The List , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , 100 Best Routes on Grit , Slab Dreams , Best Before 2025 , East and West Top 25
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| WillMancini | 26 Jun, 2023 |
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βeta: Incredible moves and a brilliant feeling securing the onsight. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Incredible moves and a brilliant feeling securing the onsight. |
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| mark s | 19 Nov, 2020 |
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βeta: 4 star route. Every move is sublime. | βeta? | |
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βeta: 4 star route. Every move is sublime. |
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| Gus | 17 May, 2020 |
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βeta: So good, crag to ourselves and great Connies for late May! Mildly terrifying after 2 months in lockdown !! | βeta? | |
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βeta: So good, crag to ourselves and great Connies for late May! Mildly terrifying after 2 months in lockdown !! |
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| Andrew Barker | 16 Oct, 2006 |
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βeta: I found the crux on this harder than the Wings crux but the top move felt easier. It's definitely E5 for the onsight, especially if you don't place the cams in the pocket (which I didn't do as it seemed too far to reach) as the other gear is lower and smaller. The last move is brilliant. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I found the crux on this harder than the Wings crux but the top move felt easier. It's definitely E5 for the onsight, especially if you don't place the cams in the pocket (which I didn't do as it seemed too far to reach) as the other gear is lower and smaller. The last move is brilliant. |
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| Aly | 5 Sep, 2006 |
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βeta: Placing the friends is easy, no matter how tall you are. Should this perhaps go down a grade or two? | βeta? | |
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βeta: Placing the friends is easy, no matter how tall you are. Should this perhaps go down a grade or two? |
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| Col Allott | 29 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: Much better than "Wings...". EVERY move is worth 3 stars. Awesome. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Much better than "Wings...". EVERY move is worth 3 stars. Awesome. |
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| Ropeboy | 4 Mar, 2005 |
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βeta: Easier than Wings but slightly bolder. The top moves can be dyno'd if you're short as the finishing holds are massive. Probably a bit of a soft touch but a nice one all the same. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Easier than Wings but slightly bolder. The top moves can be dyno'd if you're short as the finishing holds are massive. Probably a bit of a soft touch but a nice one all the same. |
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| mark s | 23 Nov, 2003 |
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βeta: if n.t and totc are e5 6b and e5 6a,totc is only worth e4.or n.t is e6,which it aint so totc is e4.if you follow me. | βeta? | |
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βeta: if n.t and totc are e5 6b and e5 6a,totc is only worth e4.or n.t is e6,which it aint so totc is e4.if you follow me. |
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| Nige M | 13 Oct, 2003 |
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βeta: I thought long and hard about the potential fall from the last move and in the end I decided to do it because I was convinced that a quick belayer would prevent a ground fall... however, nobody else there seemed to agree! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I thought long and hard about the potential fall from the last move and in the end I decided to do it because I was convinced that a quick belayer would prevent a ground fall... however, nobody else there seemed to agree! |
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| Dave Pritchard | 10 Mar, 2003 |
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βeta: A Superb route, which I think merits E5 for an onsight ascent (although I am short). | βeta? | |
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βeta: A Superb route, which I think merits E5 for an onsight ascent (although I am short). |
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| Ian Patterson | 17 Jul, 2002 |
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βeta: A superb route on a superb piece of rock (is the best bit of gritsone anywhere), though I would have thought it was generally accepted as easy for E5. | βeta? | |
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βeta: A superb route on a superb piece of rock (is the best bit of gritsone anywhere), though I would have thought it was generally accepted as easy for E5. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Roaches Skyline
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Thin Air
Grade: E5 6a ***
(Roaches Lower Tier)