40 pitches.
VI 5.9 A1.
Recent video footage shows a line of bolts up the right wall of the crux [offwidth/squeeze] pitch, which are in fact mentioned in the 2008 guidebook and have been present since the late 1990s or earlier. They will clearly have a similar effect here on overall grade, commitment, etc as would be the case on Goliath, Winking Crack, Right Eliminate, etc!
Clearly a bit easier if the [retro]bolts are still in place on the crux penultimate pitch; E1 maybe? An alpine grade of somewhere around TD/TD+, or ED1-ish if the bolts have been removed, is probably more appropriate. Given NCCS/YDS grade VI 5.9 A1 in the guidebook; more like V 5.10.
The photo-topo in the 2008 guidebook is incorrect; it shows the route starting several hundred feet to the right of where it actually starts.
Recent video footage shows a line of bolts up the right wall of the crux [offwidth/squeeze] pitch, which are in fact mentioned in the 2008 guidebook and have been present since the late 1990s or earlier. They will clearly have a similar effect here on overall grade, commitment, etc as would be the case on Goliath, Winking Crack, Right Eliminate, etc!
Clearly a bit easier if the [retro]bolts are still in place on the crux penultimate pitch; E1 maybe? An alpine grade of somewhere around TD/TD+, or ED1-ish if the bolts have been removed, is probably more appropriate. Given NCCS/YDS grade VI 5.9 A1 in the guidebook; more like V 5.10.
The photo-topo in the 2008 guidebook is incorrect; it shows the route starting several hundred feet to the right of where it actually starts.
Paul 'Tut' Braithwaite, Dennis Hennek, Paul Nunn, Doug Scott. 1972.
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