Rockfax Description
Engrossing and varied climbing up the right-hand side of the buttress. The initial slab is often damp and needs a little afternoon sun on it to dry it out. In these conditions, the slightly harder Direct Start is a good option as it dries out quickly. Start in the deep shady corner on the right side of the buttress.
1) 5b, 13m. Move up and traverse leftwards across the slabby wall (spaced protection) to a small ledge below a left-facing corner that rises to the stepped overhang. Make some difficult moves up the corner and pull over the overhang, then continue to a stance just beneath the next overhang.
Direct Start, E2 5c - The thin crack/seam up the slab to join the parent route at its small ledge.
2) 5a, 20m. Climb the wall on the left to another overlap and traverse a crack steeply left until it is possible to pull up through yet another small overlap onto the wall above. Climb the wall via the most obvious crack to a good ledge.
3) 20m. Finish easily up and left to the summit of the buttress. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Hard Rock , Kernow , West Country Climbs , MIA logbook must haves! , Ultimate E1 ticklist , CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , Extreme 2018 , Hard Rock 2020 , Definitive *** West Cornwall , Target Routes 2019/2020 , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , Pre-departure , Cornwall 2021 , Top 25 E Grades in the southwest , South West in Extremis , Kernow , Luke & Andy's Cornish Climbathon , Cornwall - October 2023 , Llidberis South West Tour

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