Restricted Access
The crag is south facing for the most part and quick drying, especially with a bit of sea breeze. However, it's worth bearing in mind that traversing along the platform at the base of the crag (needed to get to most routes) can be exciting in anything other than calm seas. The traverse is generally accessible 3 hours either side of high tide for most of the crag and the base of Terrier's Tooth and Bishop's Buttress for slightly longer, although these times are significantly reduced during neap tides. During high tides or when big seas are running, it is also possible to abseil in to the upper pitches of several routes.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction applies to all routes on Bishop's Buttress - from Lacertion to The Mitre inclusive (route 82, page 153 to route 14, page 159 in the 2017 Climber's Club guidebook).
Routes within Zawn Rinny (Consolation Climb to Shark Alley) are also restricted during the same period, but the Zawn Rinny descent for the western end of Chair Ladder is fine to use.
Rockfax Description
The hairline crack in the rib to the right of the Diocese corner gives a fine pitch with a difficult initial wall. Start above a trench at the foot of the very thin crack.
1) 5c, 20m. Climb the thin, technical crack with difficulty to a ledge at 8m. Move left and follow the thin line up the wall right of the arete to a steep narrow corner. Follow the corner to a semi-hanging stance just above.
2) 4c, 22m. Climb the cracks directly above the stance to a break and continue easily up cracks and blocks to ledges. Either belay here and then scramble off to the right or move left and continue easily for a further 15m to the top of the buttress. © Rockfax
Ticklists
West Country Climbs , Ultimate E3 ticklist , Definitive *** West Cornwall , South West in Extremis
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Chair Ladder
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Stella Maris
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Trevowhan Cliff)