July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock) in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area.
The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.
BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.
Reason: Nesting Birds
A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.
Rockfax Description
A great route with a hard rockover. Climb up to a small ledge, then foot traverse the break until you can climb up past a bolt to a second break. Mantel this and clip a bolt on the right, then traverse left to another bolt, and make a hard move past it. A further thin move leads to jugs and the lower-off. © Rockfax
Andy Swann 20/Apr/1986.
Dinorwig Essentials , North Wales Rock Graded List , Best slab climbs of the UK , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , AMC Uni Ticklist , Ultimate E3 ticklist , UK Holiday Plans , Slate Mastery , May Trip Target List , Slate Goals , Recommended Slate
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
elinlois | 27 Mar, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Easy for the grade | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Easy for the grade |
||||
Glyn Davies | 18 Nov, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: The second jug at the top of the route is very loose, but have no idea for how long it's been like that. A downward pull is probably OK ? | ||
Show beta
βeta: The second jug at the top of the route is very loose, but have no idea for how long it's been like that. A downward pull is probably OK ? |
||||
dynoseb | 15 Jun, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Cruxy slap (if your\'e short) around mid height, then run out but straight forward climbing. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Cruxy slap (if your'e short) around mid height, then run out but straight forward climbing. |
||||
Moi_taiga | 25 Apr, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Last hold is loose | ||
Show beta
βeta: Last hold is loose |
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Vivian Quarry)