Restricted Access
The crag is south facing for the most part and quick drying, especially with a bit of sea breeze. However, it's worth bearing in mind that traversing along the platform at the base of the crag (needed to get to most routes) can be exciting in anything other than calm seas. The traverse is generally accessible 3 hours either side of high tide for most of the crag and the base of Terrier's Tooth and Bishop's Buttress for slightly longer, although these times are significantly reduced during neap tides. During high tides or when big seas are running, it is also possible to abseil in to the upper pitches of several routes.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction applies to all routes on Bishop's Buttress - from Lacertion to The Mitre inclusive (route 82, page 153 to route 14, page 159 in the 2017 Climber's Club guidebook).
Routes within Zawn Rinny (Consolation Climb to Shark Alley) are also restricted during the same period, but the Zawn Rinny descent for the western end of Chair Ladder is fine to use.
Rockfax Description
A perfectly-positioned middle pitch. The first stance at the start of the best climbing can be reached at high tide by traversing across and down from the lower part of Ash Can Gully (Sev). Start as for Corporal's Route.
1) 4b, 12m. Climb the thin crack and transfer to a corner on the left that leads to a ledge. Move up and then traverse rightwards to a ledge and belay next to an arete on the right.
2) 4c, 22m. Traverse right to double converging cracks and follow these to a good ledge. Take the crack on the left to the overhang and make a short, awkward traverse left beneath it before breaking through at a crack to gain a ledge. Climb the cracks and wall above to a belay.
3) 18m. From the right, take the easiest line to the top. © Rockfax
Ticklists
West Country Climbs , South West VDiff-HVS , CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics , South West Classic VS's , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , Learning to Trad Climb: Cornwall , Kernow , Luke & Andy's Cornish Climbathon
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Chair Ladder
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C Land Super
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Cligga Head)