The crag is south facing for the most part and quick drying, especially with a bit of sea breeze. However, it's worth bearing in mind that traversing along the platform at the base of the crag (needed to get to most routes) can be exciting in anything other than calm seas. The traverse is generally accessible 3 hours either side of high tide for most of the crag and the base of Terrier's Tooth and Bishop's Buttress for slightly longer, although these times are significantly reduced during neap tides. During high tides or when big seas are running, it is also possible to abseil in to the upper pitches of several routes.
Dates: 15 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction applies to all routes on Bishop's Buttress - from Lacertion to The Mitre inclusive (route 82, page 153 to route 14, page 159 in the 2017 Climber's Club guidebook).
Routes within Zawn Rinny (Consolation Climb to Shark Alley) are also restricted during the same period, but the Zawn Rinny descent for the western end of Chair Ladder is fine to use.
Rockfax Description
Start at a thin crack right of the bottom of Ash Can Gully and just to the left of a narrow corner.
1) 4b, 26m. Climb the thin crack and transfer to a corner on the left that leads to a ledge. Head up the slab above to an orange lichen covered block and belay.
2) 4b, 12m. Move up the wall left of a wide crack and then go steeply right around the rib via cracks to meet diagonal cracks that are followed to ledges in a gully.
3) 4a, 18m. The narrow slab in the back of the gully. This can be avoided on the right if it has become totally lichen covered. © Rockfax
4 pitches.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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alboardman | 15 Apr, 2021 |
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βeta: Can run pitches 2&3 together. Quite high in the grade. Last pitch is covered in lichen. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Can run pitches 2&3 together. Quite high in the grade. Last pitch is covered in lichen. |
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andybenham | 2 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: Imo Pitch 4 only possible at the stated grade by making use of the left wall of the gully at its start & is very lichenous | βeta? | |
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βeta: Imo Pitch 4 only possible at the stated grade by making use of the left wall of the gully at its start & is very lichenous |
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Grade: HS 4b ***
(Chair Ladder)