51m, 2 pitches.
A magnificent route up the overhanging wall and arête between Transformer and Holy Grail. Start 6m right of Transformer. Some of the in-situ gear needs replacing.
1) 6b, 27m. Climb a narrow groove to roofs, pull out left, TR, to gain a diagonal ramp, PR, then cross the overhung wall left to jugs, TR. Stand up and follow the diagonal crack left to move up onto an angular block.
2) 6b, 24m. Climb up right to a narrow footledge below the arête, PR. Climb the arête, TR, then a long reach leads to easier ground.
1) 6b, 27m. Climb a narrow groove to roofs, pull out left, TR, to gain a diagonal ramp, PR, then cross the overhung wall left to jugs, TR. Stand up and follow the diagonal crack left to move up onto an angular block.
2) 6b, 24m. Climb up right to a narrow footledge below the arête, PR. Climb the arête, TR, then a long reach leads to easier ground.
M. Crocker, R. Thomas 30/Aug/1986.
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Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs
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Route of Interest
Great Diedre
Grade: E6 6b ***
(Rhossili Beach)