Restricted Access

The crag is south facing for the most part and quick drying, especially with a bit of sea breeze. However, it's worth bearing in mind that traversing along the platform at the base of the crag (needed to get to most routes) can be exciting in anything other than calm seas. The traverse is generally accessible 3 hours either side of high tide for most of the crag and the base of Terrier's Tooth and Bishop's Buttress for slightly longer, although these times are significantly reduced during neap tides. During high tides or when big seas are running, it is also possible to abseil in to the upper pitches of several routes.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies to all routes on Bishop's Buttress - from Lacertion to The Mitre inclusive (route 82, page 153 to route 14, page 159 in the 2017 Climber's Club guidebook).

Routes within Zawn Rinny (Consolation Climb to Shark Alley) are also restricted during the same period, but the Zawn Rinny descent for the western end of Chair Ladder is fine to use. 

52m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The main pitch tackles the spectacular left-hand arete of the red coloured tower. It is a bold undertaking but with good climbing. Begin on ledges below the arete.
1) 5c, 30m. Climb the arete to a small ledge and then the wall on its right to another ledge. A short wall gains a large ledge, then a wide crack on the left leads to a belay on another ledge.
2) 4c, 20m. Climb the crack and walls on the left, then the lichen-covered face right of the rib to easier ground. This pitch is very overgrown and joining and finishing up Red Wall is a much cleaner option. © Rockfax

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Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
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Route of Interest
The Awakening

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Carn Gowla)

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