Pretty demanding Via Ferrata aided ascent and descent from the summit of Triglav which utilises the north-west shoulder as opposed the popular ascent over Mali (little) Triglav. Used in conjunction with the Prag or Tomisinki routes this makes for an excellent circle.

Exposed route on steep cables, pegs and narrow unprotected ledges with stunning views of the Sphinga and North Wall of Triglav. Accessed via the Luknja Pass from either the Aljazev Dom or Vrata.

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 13 Sep Solo O/S
farmus21 10 Aug Solo Long and varied route with no difficulties but some exposure. In ascent then down Prag route. 10hrs summit to summit. Held up by crowds on the ridge coming off the summit (don't go on a weekend!)
with Kathy
Long and varied route with no difficulties but some exposure. In ascent then down Prag route. 10hrs summit to summit. Held up by crowds on the ridge coming off the summit (don't go on a weekend!)
with Kathy
jayyaj 25 Jun Lead O/S Up the Plemenice route and down the Prag route with a night in the Kredarica hut. Way more snow than we were expecting so had some tricky traverses without axes or crampons. A great route but an interesting level of protection. Cables and stemples on easy flatter sections and nothing on the trickier, more exposed sections. The cables on the Plemenice route are also in a bit of disrepair. But all in all a great few days out in the mountains.
Up the Plemenice route and down the Prag route with a night in the Kredarica hut. Way more snow than we were expecting so had some tricky traverses without axes or crampons. A great route but an interesting level of protection. Cables and stemples on easy flatter sections and nothing on the trickier, more exposed sections. The cables on the Plemenice route are also in a bit of disrepair. But all in all a great few days out in the mountains.
Karlos 25 Sep, 2018 Solo A great way up Triglav, although not especially demanding. The cables start immediately after the Luknja Pass, but only last a few hundred meters at the most, before the route moves onto the west flank of the ridge, up pebble covered paths. After a subsidiary summit on the ridge, the route goes steep once more, depositing you on the screen basin below the NW face of Triglav. After crossing this to the base of the rock, some easy cables gets you up to a col on a south ridge, at which point the route swings north and climbs easy ground to the summit. Done in a little under 7 hours. Never particularly exposed to those with a level head. High grade comes more from the fact that it's a long day, ending very high with no escapes except the way you came. We descending the more popular route (much more technically demanding and exposed) to the Kredarica Hut for the night.
with Joel, Ante
A great way up Triglav, although not especially demanding. The cables start immediately after the Luknja Pass, but only last a few hundred meters at the most, before the route moves onto the west flank of the ridge, up pebble covered paths. After a subsidiary summit on the ridge, the route goes steep once more, depositing you on the screen basin below the NW face of Triglav. After crossing this to the base of the rock, some easy cables gets you up to a col on a south ridge, at which point the route swings north and climbs easy ground to the summit. Done in a little under 7 hours. Never particularly exposed to those with a level head. High grade comes more from the fact that it's a long day, ending very high with no escapes except the way you came. We descending the more popular route (much more technically demanding and exposed) to the Kredarica Hut for the night.
with Joel, Ante
annamairead 25 Sep, 2018 Solo
with Karlos
with Karlos
Hidden 20 Aug, 2018 Solo O/S
Hidden 1 Sep, 2015 -
Chrismith ??, 2013 -
Hidden 15 Sep, 2012 Solo O/S
Hidden 9 Sep, 2012 -
Matt Smith 2 Aug, 2012 Solo O/S
jimorothy ?Aug, 2005 Solo in descent in terrible weather. Still awesome
with Rachel Crolla
in descent in terrible weather. Still awesome
with Rachel Crolla
Voting
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Votes cast 2
Votes cast 4
Style of ascent
Soloed
Lead
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