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Report of a lose bolt June 2023 - “One of the staples wobbles. As looking out at the sea it is the top left staple on the flat top of rock. This is directly above the iron ladder which gives access from Sharbutts Quarry to Sacred Angel Area”

from 14/06/2023

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Rockfax Description
The bolted line just to the right of Cinema Paradiso. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Portland , Portland 7a/+

Feedback

User Date Notes
rgbweston 31 Oct, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Large broken hold just before the first bolt. Loose and poor quality rock in the first half of the climb
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Large broken hold just before the first bolt. Loose and poor quality rock in the first half of the climb

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor North

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Voting
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 2
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Never Kneel to Skeletor

Grade: 7c+ ***
(Lulworth)

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