Restricted Access
Avoid the crag after rain - the porous rock absorbs water causing holds to become brittle. The top tier bouldering normally dries fastest and is exposed to any wind going.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Peregrines nest left of Clashhooks Gully as you look in, please avoid all routes on Upper & Lower Central Buttresses during this period. Raven have also been sighted around the route 'The Notch' - climbers are advised to avoid this area if the birds are in residence.
Peregrine chicks were confirmed in 2022, 2023 was less clear and we're checking the situation for 2024. The site is actively monitored by local bird groups, please avoid until the agreed date of 30 June and possibly longer to give chicks chance to fledge. Peregrines are a protected species covered by criminal law.
Rockfax Description
The left-hand flake on the front face is approached by a bold and tricky start, then gives thrilling juggy climbing. Sadly the dinnerplate was smashed years ago. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
VS 4c*** in 2012 BMC guide
Ticklists
Cheshire/Merseyside *** routes , McCoys Homestyle trad
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Cheeks | 25 May, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Pull with everything to start, then just coast up wards | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Pull with everything to start, then just coast up wards |
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| Fidget | 23 Apr, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Thought this was quite undergraded. I failed to get off the ground on lead, and didn't find it much easier on second! There's little gear too, although the climbing is easier above. Still, it's an appealing line. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Thought this was quite undergraded. I failed to get off the ground on lead, and didn't find it much easier on second! There's little gear too, although the climbing is easier above. Still, it's an appealing line. |
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| Fiend | 23 Apr, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Desperate to start for Severe, and reliant on one minimal piece of protection to prevent a shocking fall. More like VS 4c for that move. Quite a good route because it has a really nice finish. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Desperate to start for Severe, and reliant on one minimal piece of protection to prevent a shocking fall. More like VS 4c for that move. Quite a good route because it has a really nice finish. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Helsby
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Grooved Slab
Grade: VS 4a ***
(Helsby)