Avoid the crag after rain - the porous rock absorbs water causing holds to become brittle. The top tier bouldering normally dries fastest and is exposed to any wind going.
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Peregrines nest left of Clashhooks Gully as you look in, please avoid all routes on Upper & Lower Central Buttresses during this period. Raven have also been sighted around the route 'The Notch' - climbers are advised to avoid this area if the birds are in residence.
Peregrine chicks were confirmed in 2022, 2023 was less clear and we're checking the situation for 2024. The site is actively monitored by local bird groups, please avoid until the agreed date of 30 June and possibly longer to give chicks chance to fledge. Peregrines are a protected species covered by criminal law.
Rockfax Description
Bold with thin moves and some mid-height gear. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A neat, committing slab that is E2 in the definitive guide. Climb rightwards to a careful cluster of gear in the upper break, then move boldly up and left on veins and pockets to a distant finish.
ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Fiend | 23 Apr, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: I failed to solo this route. It does have some gear at mid-height which would be very useful for a lead, presumably what it's graded for. The new grade of E2 5c in the printed guide is closer, I think it's probably E2 5b. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I failed to solo this route. It does have some gear at mid-height which would be very useful for a lead, presumably what it's graded for. The new grade of E2 5c in the printed guide is closer, I think it's probably E2 5b. |
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Pekkie | 18 Apr, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: This must have been done before but the rock just to the right of the nose right of Wafer Wall gives a worthwhile route with a hard top move (5c/6a?) | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: This must have been done before but the rock just to the right of the nose right of Wafer Wall gives a worthwhile route with a hard top move (5c/6a?) |
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Grade: E2 5b ***
(Helsby)