Restricted Access
The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
- Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.
- Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.
Rockfax Description
The true line of the route 'Easter Island' as climbed by Ed Ward-Drummond in 1972. It is still a bit escapable but does give better and more sustained climbing than the common modern version now renamed 'Easter Edge'. From the gearing-up ledge above the river, pull onto the right face and climb the arete as closely as possible until a diagonal crack. Swing up this and make rapid moves up a crack to gain the upper groove. Follow this in a majestic position, moving left of the final roof. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
This climb has been re-named to keep it in line with the latest guidebook entries and to be more historically accurate. If you are ticking it having donw what you thought was an E1, then it is likely that you have climbed what is now called Easter Edge.
FA. Ed Ward-Drummond, Hamish Green-Armytage 1972.
Ticklists
Definitive *** Peak Lime , The Festival Of Shite , Lime trad for hobbyists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| WillMancini | 15 Feb |
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βeta: It’s 3 star all day this, super pumpy near the top. But the cracks allow you to get enough back to top out. Amazing route. | βeta? | |
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βeta: It’s 3 star all day this, super pumpy near the top. But the cracks allow you to get enough back to top out. Amazing route. |
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| LisaA | 19 Aug, 2023 |
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βeta: Most of the pegs are a lost cause but there are other decent placements. | ||
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βeta: Most of the pegs are a lost cause but there are other decent placements. |
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| Longsufferingropeholder | 6 Aug, 2023 |
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βeta: There's a rattling chunk at the start of the crack after you turn the arete. Seemed keyed in but if it did come out your belayer would have a bad day. Maybe try to set things up so they have enough mobility to dodge a bit. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: There's a rattling chunk at the start of the crack after you turn the arete. Seemed keyed in but if it did come out your belayer would have a bad day. Maybe try to set things up so they have enough mobility to dodge a bit. |
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| Graeme Hammond | 17 Jun, 2022 |
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βeta: Lots of old pegs, all apart from one are either rotted or impossible to clip, however there is loads of other good wires. The true line and Extreme Rock tick. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Lots of old pegs, all apart from one are either rotted or impossible to clip, however there is loads of other good wires. The true line and Extreme Rock tick. |
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| accynez | 1 Oct, 2020 |
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βeta: Brilliant. This needs adding to the Extreme Rock ticklist and Easter Edge taking off it. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Brilliant. This needs adding to the Extreme Rock ticklist and Easter Edge taking off it. |
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| Simon King | 21 May, 2020 |
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βeta: Confused...this route now seems to cover most of The White Edge (E3 6a) at E2 5c... You've created an excellent route, it's just pretty hard E3 5c IMO. Beta...tat on the first peg needs replacing and the second peg is shite! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Confused...this route now seems to cover most of The White Edge (E3 6a) at E2 5c... You've created an excellent route, it's just pretty hard E3 5c IMO. Beta...tat on the first peg needs replacing and the second peg is shite! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Dovedale
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
The Flakes Direct
Grade: E2 5c ***
(Stoney Middleton)