UKH
25m. Left of "The Winds of War" is an overhanging wall split by a crack. This route climbs the crack. Abseil straight down from the block at the top of the cliff, down a corner, and then maintaining a little bit of swing to gain a good ledge at the mouth of a large cave. Traverse right for three or four metres to gain the start of the crack. Climb the crack with good jams. Move onto the wall on the left to gain a positive diagonal ledge. Move up this into an off-width finish before the easy corner above. Sustained, physical, well protected and pretty good.

G Tyldesley 05/Feb/2011.

Ticklists

100 Aberdeen North East Classics! , Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5

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Route of Interest
Pulling over the crux bulge before the run-out slabby exit moves on Peel's Wall (E4, 6a***) at Ballater.
Peel's Wall

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Pass of Ballater)

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