Rockfax Description
IV, 450m. This route is hard to find in condition and is far from easy, even when it is 'in'. In good conditions, it is widely considered to be one of, if not the, best mixed line on the Tacul. It is bold in some conditions and regardless of how fat it is, a couple of stubby ice screws are worth having.
1) 4, 100m. Climb the snow slope, with an intermediate belay at the short, slabby rock step if necessary. The belay for the next pitch is 15m from the end of the easy ground.
2) 5+, 50m. Finish off the easy ground then follow the superb slabby corner (hopefully on some good ice) to a belay on a block, beneath a characteristic overhang.
3) 6, 50m. The icy streak above leads to an overhang (which is aided in poor conditions). Pull through this leftwards and climb 10m further up a mixed gully to a belay on the right.
4) 6, 35m. Another overhang leads to a 10m corner.
5) 5, 45m. A final chimney leads to a great perch on top of the pillar, below some slabby ground.
6) 4+, 50m. If conditions allow and there is plenty of ice, carry on straight up but, if things are dry, move left and climb the gully which leads to a belay on the right.
7) 3, 45m. Steadier mixed climbing, drifting gradually rightwards, leads to the foot of a snow slope.
8) 2, 40m. Follow the snow slope to a belay beneath two gullies.
9) 6+, 40m. Another route with the crux at the top! Climb the left-hand gully with considerable difficulty to gain a snow slope. Follow this easily to a belay on the right.
From here, continue on easier mixed ground and snow slopes to the summit of the Tacul, or abseil off back down the route. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Alpine ED- / IV 6+. The thin gully to the right of the Modica-Noury. Thin ice upto 90 degrees and mixed upto Scottish 7.

Stevie Haston, Laurence Gouault 1994.

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