Rockfax Description
Exhilarating but bold climbing, especially on the second pitch. Originally it started to the left but it is best to use Zig Zag.
1) 5a, 25m. Follow the rampline above the tree then move up right and back left to a slim groove. Follow this to a traverse right to the stance shared with Overhanging Bastion.
2) 5a, 40m. A poorly protected pitch. Climb the wall above the slab of Zig Zag past a spike to a vegetated ledge. Move left to the arete and climb its left-hand side until moves back right around the arete gain a sloping ledge. Continue to meet the slab of Zig Zag and follow this to finish. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
An exciting route based around the right rib of the buttress. The E2 5a grade is evocatively accurate: steady climbing but steep, exposed, and very bold in places.
P1. Climb a mossy slab diagonally rightwards to the ramp of ZigZag, move up and right to a tricky shallow groove and follow this up and right to the ash tree belay. Or, cleaner, more direct, and better, climb the cracked block as for OB, then climb boldly up and left to gain the shallow groove.
P2. Climb the wall right and up from the belay to the edge of a grassy ledge (crucial large cam). Swing around the arete and climb boldly to some hollow spikes, then boldly back right to the rib, to pop out into an easier shallow scoop. Climb this rightwards to the ramp, or, better, place the obvious wire (first bomber gear on the pitch!), step down and climb the neat left wall to the ramp. Finish up the easy wall above or the ramp itself.
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Grade: E2 5c ***
(Iron Crag)