Restricted Access

The Gorge is currently out of bounds officially since storm Vaia in October 2018 destroyed the road through the gorge. You can gain access from Malga Ciapela  but this is neither legal nor without danger.

The Sottoguda gorge is easily accessible. From Belluno drive up the Cordevole valley past Agordo, Alleghe and Caprile and continue as for Passo Fedaia. Before reaching Malga Ciapela turn off the main road and enter into Sottoguda. Drive through this village to where the road ends at the beginning of the gorge. Continue on foot to arrive swiftly at the base of the first waterfalls.

20m. Continue up the valley from Excalibur and just before a bridge on the right you will see a small ice fall which starts with a mixed section. An ice hook for this initial section is useful protection as there is no other protection available. Climb thin bridging moves up a corner and then pull up left onto buried turf. This section requires care. Then climb through a narrow section with increasing volumes of ice to reach a fat icicle. Climb this to a poor bolted and peg belay. Alternatively if you've had enough there is usually a piece of tat on a tree to the right just of the ice fall before you commit to the steep ice moves. The belay does require replacement.

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Style of Ascent
Lead
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Route of Interest
Vernel Gully

Grade: WI-4 ***
(Marmolada)

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