Rockfax Description
A good alternative to the popular Comici route, which shares the final pitches on the arete. Start below a ramp of grey rock (the furthest right of the possible starts to the Comici route).
1) III+, 20m. Climb the ramp rightwards moving slightly back left to a belay.
2) III+, 40m. Move left, climb a short corner then continue almost horizontally left before climbing a second short corner and stepping left to the belay. The Comici route branches out left from here.
3) IV-, 25m. Climb diagonally right, heading for a white mark on the rock. Continue to a belay below a chimney.
4) IV-, 30m. Follow the chimney keeping on its right, move right around a chockstone to a stance above it.
5) IV+, 30m. Climb the polished wall above, move left then climb direct up a slab. Trend left to a belay.
6) III+, 30m. Continue left to join the arete, then follow the arete to a ledge.
7) IV-, 30m. Continue direct from the ledge, keeping close to but just left of the arete, to a stance on a small pulpit.
8) III, 40m. Climb direct then slightly left up easier ground to the summit. © Rockfax

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