Restricted Access

The main bolted areas (Apiary Wall and Scabby Back) are unrestricted. All other areas of the crag including Fisherman's Steps are restricted.

There was a landslide on the steep descent to the north of the lighthouse in November 2021 causing damage to the bolt anchors and fixed ropes. The recommended alternative descent is by the easier route further north. The Fishermans steps is another alternative to the south but this is only recommended to those who are really happy with strenuous and exposed descents. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The area has very important Guillemot, Kitttiwake, and Razorbill breeding colonies and The RSPB have stipulated no access to the area south (right) of the route Army Screamers between the above dates.

Other restricted St Bees areas:

  • St. Bees Far South Boulders - South of Fisherman's Steps / "Fishermans Dyno Boulder
  • St. Bees Head South - sectors beyond "Cryptozoo" and the cliff top access path

Access to Fleswick Bay is permitted all year round, but only south of the inlet where the path meets the shore.

At South Head the small bouldering area is only accessible outside the nesting season.

No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists

The LakesBloc Top 50 , Lakes Ticklist , 30 Before 30 , Stone Cold Classics , Summer Bouldering in the UK - 7's , Lakes Bouldering 7A-7B , Shauna Coxsey's Fifty best 7th Grade boulders in the UK.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Emilio Bachini 29 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: It seems like a tide above 5 meters will completely cover the landing and lower parts of the block. May happen with an even lower tide.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It seems like a tide above 5 meters will completely cover the landing and lower parts of the block. May happen with an even lower tide.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for St. Bees Head

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High f7A+
Mid f7A+
Low f7A+
High f7A
Mid f7A
Low f7A
High f6C+
Mid f6C+
Low f6C+
Votes cast 26
Votes cast 29
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Lead
Not Set
Redpoint
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Secret Garden

Grade: f7A ***
(Jopplety How)

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