Restricted Access
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
The annual nesting restriction covers the whole crag. Several protected species nest both on the crag and directly on the crag above the descent gully, and the whole crag is restricted between the above dates. Keep an eye/ear open for the birds and for signs on the approach. If the birds fledge early or fail to nest then the signs will be removed.
The routes on the left hand side that are approached by abseil (Opal Moon) are also restricted due to nesting sea-birds and the restriction applies here even if restrictions are lifted for the remainder of the crag.
Rockfax Description
A fine sport route. Start on a red ledge above a grotty pillar, at a belay bolt. Follow the resin bolts upwards to a lower-off at the belay of New Dimensions. © Rockfax
FA. S.Lee, H.Lancashire. Named because they didn't see the restriction sign. The route was climbed by all the locals before they knew whos route it was. May/1996.
Ticklists
North Wales Rock Graded List , North Wales Limestone Sport 7s , North Wales 7b and 7b+ starfest! , North Wales Limestone 7a to 7b
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Castell y Gwynt
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The Ormesman
Grade: 7b ***
(Lighthouse Crags)