Rockfax Description
The amazing back wall of the zawn is climbed in its entirety by this adventurous and serious expedition. The rock is not the best and the original fixed gear has decayed. Start on the right side of the wave washed platform.
1) 7m. Traverse out right and belay on a ledge under a corner.
2) 6a, 8m. This pitch is often wet. Move up to a break and head right to a sloping ledge and belay.
3) 6a, 25m. Reach a right trending break via a thin crack and bulge and follow it to a red-stained wall. Move up the wall and then gain the narrow corner and flake crack to its left. Undercut up along the flake passing a good foothold to a spike at its end. Traverse right over poor rock to a narrow ledge and on to a belay under a corner/groove. High cams for the belay.
4) 5c, 25m. Climb steeply up the corner/groove and over the initial overhangs. Continue up the groove past a final overhang and finish up cracks. © Rockfax
Great Wall Climbs of the UK , Definitive *** West Cornwall
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Grade: E5 6a ***
(Tintagel Head)