Restricted Access

July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock)  in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area. 

The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.

BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.

3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A great long adventure which is proving popular. The top of the first pitch has a lot of loose rock and is best avoided by starting from The Sidings.
1) 6a. A Grand Day Out Pitch 1. This is the old first pitch which is now best avoided, due to some rockfall. Belay at the end of the Sidings level instead.
2) 5a. A Grand Day Out Pitch 2. Move out right in a great position and climb to the level above.
3) 6a+. Harder than it Looks. Almost directly opposite is another good one.
4) 6b+. Feeling Rusty?. The hardest pitch. Indiana Jasmine... to the right provides an easier alternative to bring the overall grade down a bit.
5) 6a. Plastic Soldier. Great climbing on the Skyline. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Ist Pitch F6b: Climb the slab on the fallen block on the right side of Railtrack Slab. From the top of the block follow the right trending rampline to top out on the Sidings level.
2nd Pitch F5a: Climb out right onto hand/foot traverse across the top of Psychodelicate slab. Hard move to top out.
3rd Pitch F6a Climb the wall above the twin bolt belay. Harder than it looks. The moves in the top third are good.

Don't forget people, this is the route "A Grand Day Out", not the link up!!

1st pitch Fraser Ball, 2nd Archie Ball, 3rd Josie Ball.

Ticklists

Dinorwic Slate - Multi Pitch Sport Climbs , Slate Sport , All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 6b & 6b+ , All multi-pitch sport routes (England and Wales)

Feedback

User Date Notes
Thin Boyz 13 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: No bolt belays at pitches 2,3 and 4. Bring whammo slings and maybe some medium cams if you want a really sturdy belay. Also a helmet.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: No bolt belays at pitches 2,3 and 4. Bring whammo slings and maybe some medium cams if you want a really sturdy belay. Also a helmet.
Andy Moles 22 May, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: First pitch still climbable with care. You can easily skirt on the right to reach the second bolt, avoiding the bold direct move to get to it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First pitch still climbable with care. You can easily skirt on the right to reach the second bolt, avoiding the bold direct move to get to it.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 35
Votes cast 32
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Slab Rog

Grade: 6b+ ***
(Australia)

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