Rockfax Description
A superbly-exposed finale makes this a tremendous outing, although it is high in the grade.
1) 4c, 27m. Start at a small rib flanked on both sides by grooves. Climb the groove on the right of the rib, then surmount the rib itself. From its top, move right onto a slanting rake. Follow this to belay in the holly trees.
2) 4c, 9m. Follow the short groove on the left side of the ledge, passing a detached flake to gain a large ledge and tree belay over to the left.
3) 5c, 27m. The pitch! A superbly sustained groove above the belay leads to a step right. Pass a loose block with care to reach the large roof above. A wild monkey-swing through the roof gains a ledge on the left. Step back up and right towards the steep arete to small ledges and interesting belays.
4) 5a, 18m. Trend rightwards up the steep face with sparse protection. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
1) Start to the right of the rib and work your way on top, step right onto flake and down slightly to make a move back up and right. Stay below the gorse on fairly crappy holds working your way right. head up through the holly bush to belay.
2)Trend left to the ledge with the ash tree mega flake to belay off.
3)The fun begins.... climb the groove behind the tree (the tree helps to get started) good gear placements. Step left slightly good foot holds then back into the groove on crappy holds, work your way up to a loose block under the roof and a peg (good runner underneath it). there are a few hand holds under the roof and a foot hold about 50cm below the peg, boldly swing out left and grab hold of the ledge which is at the same height as the edge of the roof, really smooth crap hold, work your way onto the ledge, good gear on right wall. Climb the arete to a poor peg belay.
4)Climb the fluted wall above trending right, sparse gear and bold to belay at the top.
Ticklists
North Wales Rock Graded List , MIA logbook must haves! , Ingle Routes , "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , 2021 , North Wales To Do List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Kasia | 31 Aug, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Take a lot of slings as you will be wrapping them around rock and trees a lot! 1st pitch - good gear up to the traverse left, then care has to be taken on easy but vegetated ground moving rightwards. Some good cams and slings wrapped around small trees a bit higher. 2nd pitch - placed two pieces of gear. V short pitch and it could be joined with a 1st pitch but be mindful of how the ropes will run through vegetation. 3rd pitch - a crux pitch starting at climbing the tree as high as possible. Then some creativity is required with small offsets. Wild moves, making the climb more of an E2, moving leftwards from an old peg (delicately standing on a loose block) under a small roof. Thin gear follows to belay where slings could be used for belaying from rock spikes. 4th pitch - different fluted rock with not so brilliant gear; could be done with 3rd pitch. Very pleasant top. Descent leftwards on a very pleasant grassy slope. Back at bags in 3min. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Take a lot of slings as you will be wrapping them around rock and trees a lot! 1st pitch - good gear up to the traverse left, then care has to be taken on easy but vegetated ground moving rightwards. Some good cams and slings wrapped around small trees a bit higher. 2nd pitch - placed two pieces of gear. V short pitch and it could be joined with a 1st pitch but be mindful of how the ropes will run through vegetation. 3rd pitch - a crux pitch starting at climbing the tree as high as possible. Then some creativity is required with small offsets. Wild moves, making the climb more of an E2, moving leftwards from an old peg (delicately standing on a loose block) under a small roof. Thin gear follows to belay where slings could be used for belaying from rock spikes. 4th pitch - different fluted rock with not so brilliant gear; could be done with 3rd pitch. Very pleasant top. Descent leftwards on a very pleasant grassy slope. Back at bags in 3min. |
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| Mike D | 31 Jul, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: The pitch tech grades here (4c, 4c, 5b, 5a) are about right - and a bit higher than in most older guides (4c, 4a, 5b, 4c). Pegs okay, but none are crucial anyway. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: The pitch tech grades here (4c, 4c, 5b, 5a) are about right - and a bit higher than in most older guides (4c, 4a, 5b, 4c). Pegs okay, but none are crucial anyway. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Carreg Wastad
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The Groove
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Llech Ddu (Black Slab))