16m.

Rockfax Description
The wide hanging slot in the right side of the tower is a sod to enter and leads awkwardly to a breather on the ledge. The upper arete is easier but bolder and features a creaky flake. Finish on the right-hand side. Cruely undergraded at HVS in the past. © Rockfax

FFA. Dave Hollows 1969 Ian Lonsdale (2nd pitch as described) 1977.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Mark Collins 3 Dec, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Dry
βeta?
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βeta: Dry
Rock142 30 Mar, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Guid book said E1. I was lied to. Found a dead bird half way in the off-width, possibly consider aid as it made me climb faster.
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βeta: Guid book said E1. I was lied to. Found a dead bird half way in the off-width, possibly consider aid as it made me climb faster.
Jon Read 24 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The flake high on the arête can take a sling around it, held in place by a cam (2 cams) -- arguably less prone to ripping than the large nut at its base. I had all three bits!
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βeta: The flake high on the arête can take a sling around it, held in place by a cam (2 cams) -- arguably less prone to ripping than the large nut at its base. I had all three bits!
Tommy_shaw 19 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Found this route very tough, I personally think it’s harder than golden tower. The begging off width was greasy dirty and muddy at the back. This probably didn’t help the climbing.
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βeta: Found this route very tough, I personally think it’s harder than golden tower. The begging off width was greasy dirty and muddy at the back. This probably didn’t help the climbing.
JR 14 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: IRT Andy S: Way harder than Peapod!
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βeta: IRT Andy S: Way harder than Peapod!
JR 14 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: This route is desperate for HVS. Felt E2ish to me. The flake where you place the last piece of gear on the arete is loose and will likely rip the gear and come with you if you fluff the final bold and really quite tough for the position and grade and really reachy moves on the arete. If it did, you'd be lucky to climb or even walk again. Take care, its not stanage out there...
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βeta: This route is desperate for HVS. Felt E2ish to me. The flake where you place the last piece of gear on the arete is loose and will likely rip the gear and come with you if you fluff the final bold and really quite tough for the position and grade and really reachy moves on the arete. If it did, you'd be lucky to climb or even walk again. Take care, its not stanage out there...
Andy Farnell 11 Apr, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: This is harder than the arete to the right (Midas Touch E6 6c)!!!
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βeta: This is harder than the arete to the right (Midas Touch E6 6c)!!!

Logged Ascents

88 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Anglezarke Quarry

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 9
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 17
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Necromicon Arete

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Pinfold Quarry)

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