Restricted Access

Wilton 3 is owned by Bolton Gun Club with agreed times for shooting and climbing - live firing takes place and it is vital that climbers understand and follow the agreed access arrangements. A new approach has recently been agreed – please see the ‘access’ section below for details as the old approach through the front gate is no longer possible.

Climbers have priority on Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays. Shooters have priority on Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays and if shooting, red flags will be flying around the top of the quarry as well as on the approach.

On shooting days when the red warning flags are not in place, climbers can access the quarries, but if shooters arrive later, please pack up and leave as soon as safely possible. Please try to avoid the temptation of assuming that the ranges are not being used until at least mid-afternoon. On days when climbers have priority, the shooters can use the sites if climbers are not present when they arrive. However, if climbers arrive shooting must stop. If shooting is taking place on a climbing day, enter the quarry using the route detailed in the ‘access’ section below and approach the shooters hut along the newly landscaped path (which takes you safely behind the line of fire). Politely ask the shooters to stop and allow them a reasonable amount of time to clear up.

Climbers have an additional day in Wilton 3 on Mondays compared to Wilton 2 & 4. If the neighbouring gun club are using Wilton 2 but Wilton 3 is not being used, climbers can still use Wilton 3, provided that they do not climb the routes on Orange Wall (i.e. routes between Twin Cracks and Orange Corner inclusive). On these days, climbers must not pass the fence on the ridge between Wilton 2 and 3 or descend past it.

14m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the shady right wall of the arete starting on the right and following a thin crack past a small bulge to a sweet finish. © Rockfax

FFA. Mick Pooler 1962.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , Classic Wilton Workout , Northern Rock's Little Gems

Feedback

User Date Notes
JR 15 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: i thought this was failry straight forward with good gear where you needed it and a nicely technical but not difficult move at the top...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: i thought this was failry straight forward with good gear where you needed it and a nicely technical but not difficult move at the top...
Pekkie 14 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: For once couldn't agree with Fiend - usually his comments are right on the money. Start is well-protected 5b'ish then a Rock 1 & 2 & RP fest to overlap. Good smallish friends protect top moves. Swept a load of dust off the top - if everyone did this the route would soon be clean and two stars!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: For once couldn't agree with Fiend - usually his comments are right on the money. Start is well-protected 5b'ish then a Rock 1 & 2 & RP fest to overlap. Good smallish friends protect top moves. Swept a load of dust off the top - if everyone did this the route would soon be clean and two stars!
r0b 9 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: A good route which is more technical than strenuous, with nice moves to get established above the roof. Shame that it can be a bit dusty.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A good route which is more technical than strenuous, with nice moves to get established above the roof. Shame that it can be a bit dusty.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Wilton 3

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 74
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 73
Votes cast 61
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Central Crack

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Wilton 3)

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