Access to Malham is a privilege and subject to the following climbers access agreement. Please ensure you read, understand and follow these points to ensure continued good relations with the Parish Council, other landowners, farmers and local residents
By following these guidelines, you'll be making sure the currently good relations with the village and Parish Council are maintained for the future.
Respect the Rock: How to climb at Malham Cove - YouTube
Dates: 1 March to 30 September
Reason: Nesting Birds
Update: The Peregrine restriction for 2023 has been lifted (as of 23rd May) due to nest failure.
Peregrine restriction: Malham is an important and very visible site for nesting peregrines. The restriction when in force applies to all the routes on the Terrace Wall and the Carnage Area of the Right Wing from 1st March-31st July. However, the routes to the right of Scorpio (which starts as for Carnage Left Hand) are unrestricted.
The bolted sport routes on the right side of Upper Central Wall are unaffected except for those that breach the main overhang. On-site notices will also be in place and RSPB volunteers will monitor the birds throughout the nesting period.
House martins also frequently nest between May-September, often on the popular hard sport routes (frequently affecting Raindogs, Seventh Aardvark, Bat Route and others). Please avoid any routes with nests on or near to avoid damaging the nests, until the young have fledged. It will be obvious which nests are being used due to parents flying in and out. Whilst routes can be climbed once the young have fledged, they can return to the nest site to roost, so be careful not to damage the nests.
Rockfax Description
A superb crossing of the Carnage Wall and The Terrace with ever increasing exposure. Start as for Wind and Wuthering.1) 5b, 27m. Follow Wind and Wuthering up its flake and then up to easier ground. Step left, climbing the wall and ramp of East Wall Route to eventually step onto a good ledge and belay 6m below the top of the crag.2) 6b, 36m. Make a difficult traverse left around the blunt arete to a short corner (runners here to give a back-rope for the second). A difficult reverse mantel is followed by a swing down and left to reach horizontal breaks and then the sloping ledge that crosses the wall to below the Carnage 'mantelshelf' (there is an old low peg runner half way). Step down and left to the horizontal crack, and hand traverse this to a hawthorn. Move up and across to a tree belay on Limehill.3) 6b, 30m. Move down to a ledge below a small groove. Clip a peg runner in the break at foot level then drop down and follow the break to a thread runner and the wide groove (New Dawn Fades). Reverse the groove and go left to the base of the Midnight Cowboy ramp, then head up this to gain its flake. Traverse delicately left passing a groove to belay at a tree in the next groove.4) 6a, 12m. Finger traverse the break that leads to the thread runner in the wide groove (Sundance Wall). Follow the groove to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
5b,6b,6b,6a: An energy-sapping high level traverse of the Upper Right Wing and Terrace Walls. Start as for Crossbones and finish on Sundance Groove.
Pete Livesey(1972), FFA: Martin Berzins (1982).
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Grade: E5 6b ***
(Kilnsey)