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Advisory notice: Crows (most probably jackdaws) are reported to be nesting in the Graveyard area. Staying off routes/problems in this area will avoid possible disturbance.

 

Now owned by the BMC, this disused quarry has been dedicated as Open Access Land under the CRoW Act. A few things to consider when climbing at this crag:

  • Whilst generally good quality gritstone, there is potential for loose rock given the site is a former quarry, where blasting techniques were used to remove rock and ongoing weathering could also loosen rock over time (as with any other crag).
  • Consider wearing a helmet when climbing in the quarry.
  • Some routes in the quarry feature fixed equipment such as pegs, stuck trad gear, belay stakes and even a few bolts. Fixed equipment should always be treated with caution and it is up to each climber to make a judgement call whether they think it is reliable. Consider backing up fixed equipment with your own gear wherever possible.

If you're able to lend a hand on the cleanup sessions, someone on the 'Lancashire Rock Revival' group will point you in the right direction: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1566324270279682

20m.

Rockfax Description
A pumpy Wilton classic, powerful and devious, though with good gear throughout. Rope work can be a little problematical. From Blackout climb strenuously to the seagull-shaped roof then compose yourself before launching right along this to a bridged rest at its far end. Just when you thought it was all over you find that the final short crack takes no prisoners. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
An intense route with brutal climbing along the slanting roof (easier for dwarfs with thin fingers) to a jamming (not bridging) rest, then more precarious and powerful moves to a nice top-out. Hard and safe.

FA. Hank Pasquill 1970.

Ticklists

Lancashire's Finest , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , Wilton wanderers , Definitive *** Lancs Grit

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Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Wilton 1

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 11
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 10
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Repeated
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Master Spy Direct

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Wilton 1)

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