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USER ATTENTION

Advisory notice: Crows (most probably jackdaws) are reported to be nesting in the Graveyard area. Staying off routes/problems in this area will avoid possible disturbance.

 

Now owned by the BMC, this disused quarry has been dedicated as Open Access Land under the CRoW Act. A few things to consider when climbing at this crag:

  • Whilst generally good quality gritstone, there is potential for loose rock given the site is a former quarry, where blasting techniques were used to remove rock and ongoing weathering could also loosen rock over time (as with any other crag).
  • Consider wearing a helmet when climbing in the quarry.
  • Some routes in the quarry feature fixed equipment such as pegs, stuck trad gear, belay stakes and even a few bolts. Fixed equipment should always be treated with caution and it is up to each climber to make a judgement call whether they think it is reliable. Consider backing up fixed equipment with your own gear wherever possible.

If you're able to lend a hand on the cleanup sessions, someone on the 'Lancashire Rock Revival' group will point you in the right direction: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1566324270279682

26m.

Rockfax Description
Another wandering and intimidating classic on which care is required to protect the second adequately. Climb to the top of the pillar then the groove above until its is possible (essential?) to head left to the first of a series of ledges. Move left to a peg belay. Move up and left to more ledges then follow these back right to an exposed and grotty exit. © Rockfax

FA. Dave Brodigan 1963.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Harry Ikin 14 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I agree with some of the comments above. The move onto the traverse felt much more like 4c, but the 1st part of the 2nd pitch was fine ... it's just chossy for the last few metres.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I agree with some of the comments above. The move onto the traverse felt much more like 4c, but the 1st part of the 2nd pitch was fine ... it's just chossy for the last few metres.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Wilton 1

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 22
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 21
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Twin Crack Corner

Grade: VS 4b ***
(Standing Stones)

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