Rockfax Description
Another classic route by the prolific Steger and Wiesinger pair. Excellent climbing for the grade, with solid unpolished rock. Take care when route finding in the upper half.
Start in a small clearing at the base of a prominent leftwards-trending ramp.
1) III, 45m. Climb the ramp leftwards with easy but enjoyable climbing to a stance at a single peg.
2) III, 45m. Continue in the same line to reach a vegetated space with pegs, at the base of a yellow-grey corner, just right of a big grey leaning pillar.
3) IV, 45m. Climb the corner above for 10m then, at the break, step left onto a grey mound and follow this round to a good stance.
4) IV-, 25m. Traverse up in the same line then climb the next corner to reach the top of a pillar.
5) V-, 15m. Climb direct for 4m to a peg then traverse right on good holds - well protected. Step down into a yellow niche. Continue moving right to a stance just left of a yellow groove.
6) V, 40m. Climb direct on slightly shattered ground following the best rock then follow a vague crack to reach the roof. Make an awkward step right on good holds to a niche.
7) V+, 30m. Step right, moving around an arete to reach a bulging flake above. This provides excellent climbing with plenty of pegs. Continue moving slightly left to reach two cracks. Climb the left-hand of the two to reach two pegs and a thread.
8) IV+, 50m. Traverse easily left from the belay, aiming for the left-most black gully. Alternatively, climb left, direct, then back right to climb the nearer of the two black corners (harder at V) on slightly loose rock. Continue to reach a choss-strewn slope.
9-11) III, 200m. Pick your way through the loose rock, heading in the vague direction of Rifugio Re Alberto, passing curious mushroom-like choss towers on the way to the summit. © Rockfax
H. Steger and P. Wiesinger 1929.
Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel , Big Routes , Dolomites Trip
User | Date | Notes | ||
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jackmorford | 12 Sep, 2023 |
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βeta: Most people seem to ignore the ramp and start more direct these days. We were surprised to find no-one on the ramp, but realized we didn\'t have the route all to ourselves when we found some traffic at the top of P4 due to those who did the direct start. The V- pitch was in our opinion considerably harder than the V+ pitch (which was joyous btw!). | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Most people seem to ignore the ramp and start more direct these days. We were surprised to find no-one on the ramp, but realized we didn't have the route all to ourselves when we found some traffic at the top of P4 due to those who did the direct start. The V- pitch was in our opinion considerably harder than the V+ pitch (which was joyous btw!). |
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Grade: V+ ***
(Brenta Group)