Restricted Access

USER ATTENTION

Advisory notice: Crows (most probably jackdaws) are reported to be nesting in the Graveyard area. Staying off routes/problems in this area will avoid possible disturbance.

 

Now owned by the BMC, this disused quarry has been dedicated as Open Access Land under the CRoW Act. A few things to consider when climbing at this crag:

  • Whilst generally good quality gritstone, there is potential for loose rock given the site is a former quarry, where blasting techniques were used to remove rock and ongoing weathering could also loosen rock over time (as with any other crag).
  • Consider wearing a helmet when climbing in the quarry.
  • Some routes in the quarry feature fixed equipment such as pegs, stuck trad gear, belay stakes and even a few bolts. Fixed equipment should always be treated with caution and it is up to each climber to make a judgement call whether they think it is reliable. Consider backing up fixed equipment with your own gear wherever possible.

If you're able to lend a hand on the cleanup sessions, someone on the 'Lancashire Rock Revival' group will point you in the right direction: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1566324270279682

26m.

Rockfax Description
A devious classic - the name refers to a back flip in aerobatics and is not Cockney rhyming slang! Clipping and passing the second peg is desperate for the short! Climb round the overlap to the main horizontal break, step right then climb straight up the wall into a shallow groove. Finish through the blocky overhanging groove capping the face. Straightening out the loop is White Lightening E5 6b. © Rockfax

FA. Hank Pasquill (2 pegs) 1967 FFA Hank Pasquill 1971.

Ticklists

Lancashire's Finest , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , Definitive *** Lancs Grit

Feedback

User Date Notes
datoon 14 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: I'm not sure how double bolt belays would do anything - the moves through the overhang are a nice way to finish the climb. Well worthy of 3 stars...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I'm not sure how double bolt belays would do anything - the moves through the overhang are a nice way to finish the climb. Well worthy of 3 stars...
Fiend 20 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: A substantial, impressive and rewarding outing. Some good and very committing moves, rarely with the protection where you want it. Clipping the second peg is cruel for the short, as is reaching the ledge. The finish is fairly memorable too, and the top-out is fine.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A substantial, impressive and rewarding outing. Some good and very committing moves, rarely with the protection where you want it. Clipping the second peg is cruel for the short, as is reaching the ledge. The finish is fairly memorable too, and the top-out is fine.
mrjsenior 23 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Lower peg seriously deteriorated and in need of replacing, making the crux (between the pegs) very committing. Second peg tough to clip if short. Overall, very little in the way of dependable gear. Some good moves but not worthy of 3* - stick to Supercrack or Max at the grade.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lower peg seriously deteriorated and in need of replacing, making the crux (between the pegs) very committing. Second peg tough to clip if short. Overall, very little in the way of dependable gear. Some good moves but not worthy of 3* - stick to Supercrack or Max at the grade.
salancaster 28 Jan, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Great route just like Isle of White, committing to the finish was the crux for me. OK once you do it!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route just like Isle of White, committing to the finish was the crux for me. OK once you do it!
mark hounslea 22 Sep, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: A serious start ,the move to clip the second peg probably being the crux
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A serious start ,the move to clip the second peg probably being the crux

Logged Ascents

88 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Wilton 1

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 23 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 23
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 16
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Redpoint
DNF
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
The King of the Swingers, the Jumbles V.I.P

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Jumbles)

Loading Notifications...