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Advisory notice: Crows (most probably jackdaws) are reported to be nesting in the Graveyard area. Staying off routes/problems in this area will avoid possible disturbance.

 

Now owned by the BMC, this disused quarry has been dedicated as Open Access Land under the CRoW Act. A few things to consider when climbing at this crag:

  • Whilst generally good quality gritstone, there is potential for loose rock given the site is a former quarry, where blasting techniques were used to remove rock and ongoing weathering could also loosen rock over time (as with any other crag).
  • Consider wearing a helmet when climbing in the quarry.
  • Some routes in the quarry feature fixed equipment such as pegs, stuck trad gear, belay stakes and even a few bolts. Fixed equipment should always be treated with caution and it is up to each climber to make a judgement call whether they think it is reliable. Consider backing up fixed equipment with your own gear wherever possible.

If you're able to lend a hand on the cleanup sessions, someone on the 'Lancashire Rock Revival' group will point you in the right direction: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1566324270279682

20m.

Rockfax Description
Layback the pointed flake then climb straight up the wall to Eastern Terrace. Move left along ledges then step back right to enter and climb the upper groove. © Rockfax

FA. Ray Evans 1964.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List

Feedback

User Date Notes
C Witter 29 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The comments on this climb are hilarious. Thanks for that! Anyway: be careful of the block before the final groove. It looks likely to blow if it takes a fall and would be fatal if it hit your belayer. There are other runners, e.g. good crack 1.5m to the right.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The comments on this climb are hilarious. Thanks for that! Anyway: be careful of the block before the final groove. It looks likely to blow if it takes a fall and would be fatal if it hit your belayer. There are other runners, e.g. good crack 1.5m to the right.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Wilton 1

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High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 47
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 46
Votes cast 46
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Ornithologist's Corner

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Wimberry Rocks)

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