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USER ATTENTION

Advisory notice: Crows (most probably jackdaws) are reported to be nesting in the Graveyard area. Staying off routes/problems in this area will avoid possible disturbance.

 

Now owned by the BMC, this disused quarry has been dedicated as Open Access Land under the CRoW Act. A few things to consider when climbing at this crag:

  • Whilst generally good quality gritstone, there is potential for loose rock given the site is a former quarry, where blasting techniques were used to remove rock and ongoing weathering could also loosen rock over time (as with any other crag).
  • Consider wearing a helmet when climbing in the quarry.
  • Some routes in the quarry feature fixed equipment such as pegs, stuck trad gear, belay stakes and even a few bolts. Fixed equipment should always be treated with caution and it is up to each climber to make a judgement call whether they think it is reliable. Consider backing up fixed equipment with your own gear wherever possible.

If you're able to lend a hand on the cleanup sessions, someone on the 'Lancashire Rock Revival' group will point you in the right direction: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1566324270279682

16m.

Rockfax Description
A great route which is not as pumpy as it looks but requires sustained effort right to the end. It follows the continuous crack-line past a ledge at 6m. Take care with a couple of rattling holds. © Rockfax

FA. Hank Pasquill 1967.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Western Grit: Top 50 , Lancashire's Finest , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , Classic Wilton Workout , Definitive *** Lancs Grit , 100 Best Routes on Grit , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tom Redwood 19 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Creaky flakes/block, ok for now but put your belayer to the side.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Creaky flakes/block, ok for now but put your belayer to the side.
FindleyAlex 6 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Wobbly blocks halfway up, seem bomber though
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Wobbly blocks halfway up, seem bomber though
Kyuzo 26 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Nice holds, a short tricky section after the ledge is what I found most taxing. Really good fun.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice holds, a short tricky section after the ledge is what I found most taxing. Really good fun.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Wilton 1

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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 97
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 93
Votes cast 95
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Cameo

Grade: E1 5a ***
(Wilton 1)

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