Restricted Access

Superb crag with many different sections. The restriction affects the routes Star Wars to The Deerhunter.  (2023 - this restriction has been lifted from July 3rd 2023)

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Restriction, to protect nesting Choughs, affects the routes Star Wars to Deerhunter.  (Lifted for 2023) 

 

 

 

 

45m.

Rockfax Description
A terrific line. To start, abseil to tidal ledges below a curving niche. Pull into the chimney-crack, and follow it until it abruptly ends; move up, then follow the leftwards-groove to gain the steep vertical groove above. Follow this on its natural course all the way to the finish. © Rockfax

FA. R.Harrison, D.Carter 07/Aug/1983.

Ticklists

The Best of Pembroke , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet)

Feedback

User Date Notes
Mark Leicester 16 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Great climbing and situation but expect the slippery chimney to be wet as we did this after 2 weeks of dry weather with all other crags bone dry and it was still very wet. Thankfully good gear - take plenty of medium wires.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great climbing and situation but expect the slippery chimney to be wet as we did this after 2 weeks of dry weather with all other crags bone dry and it was still very wet. Thankfully good gear - take plenty of medium wires.
anguskille 3 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Found it better to an down from climber's left (nearer Preposterous Tales) and swinging right to the ledge. Worth having about 40m of ab rope to hang over the edge to reach the ledge i.e. not putting your anchors too far back if your rope is short
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Found it better to an down from climber's left (nearer Preposterous Tales) and swinging right to the ledge. Worth having about 40m of ab rope to hang over the edge to reach the ledge i.e. not putting your anchors too far back if your rope is short

Logged Ascents

40 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Bosherston Head

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 16 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 4
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Swordfish

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Stackpole Head)

Loading Notifications...