Superb crag with many different sections. The restriction affects the routes Star Wars to The Deerhunter. (2023 - this restriction has been lifted from July 3rd 2023)
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Restriction, to protect nesting Choughs, affects the routes Star Wars to Deerhunter. (Lifted for 2023)
Rockfax Description
A terrific line. To start, abseil to tidal ledges below a curving niche. Pull into the chimney-crack, and follow it until it abruptly ends; move up, then follow the leftwards-groove to gain the steep vertical groove above. Follow this on its natural course all the way to the finish. © Rockfax
FA. R.Harrison, D.Carter 07/Aug/1983.
The Best of Pembroke , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet)
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Mark Leicester | 16 May, 2022 |
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βeta: Great climbing and situation but expect the slippery chimney to be wet as we did this after 2 weeks of dry weather with all other crags bone dry and it was still very wet. Thankfully good gear - take plenty of medium wires. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great climbing and situation but expect the slippery chimney to be wet as we did this after 2 weeks of dry weather with all other crags bone dry and it was still very wet. Thankfully good gear - take plenty of medium wires. |
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anguskille | 3 May, 2021 |
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βeta: Found it better to an down from climber's left (nearer Preposterous Tales) and swinging right to the ledge. Worth having about 40m of ab rope to hang over the edge to reach the ledge i.e. not putting your anchors too far back if your rope is short | βeta? | |
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βeta: Found it better to an down from climber's left (nearer Preposterous Tales) and swinging right to the ledge. Worth having about 40m of ab rope to hang over the edge to reach the ledge i.e. not putting your anchors too far back if your rope is short |
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Grade: E3 5c ***
(Stackpole Head)