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USER ATTENTION
3 March 2023 update: Peregrines and other seabirds are either prospecting or nesting on this crag.
A temporary ban has been put in place by the National Trust covering the area of cliff between Tubby Head and Bawden Cliff, so includes all of the major route locations up to and including the America Buttress. Once the exact locations of any nests have been identified, restrictions may be lifted.
from 03/03/0023
An amazing slab climb up the left edge of the buttress, long, varied and involved, albeit with a very serious start. Take a lot of small-medium cams, wires, and extenders. Currently poorly described in the topo. Start at the bottom on the slab, just right of the arete. Climb up and leftwards via small crimps and pitiful RPs to a slab on the arete. Continue up the arete past reasonable protection to a high triangular ledge. Traverse right on pockets beneath the overlap and make committing moves over this to gain a small rightwards ramp, then the main leftwards ramp. Finish up a ledgy crack above.
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Route of Interest
One Two Zero
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Basher's Harbour)