Restricted Access
To the left of Stackpole Grooves. the Routes Sea Eagle to Shy Talk City have gone as well as the top pitch of The Hawk.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction covers the W Face, S Face (inc. Stackpole Point, Cracks Wall, Leaning Tower and Promontory), E Face (inc. Main Face and White Pillar) and from The Gilt Edge/Mussel Up to Poisoned Love and is normally marked by red cliff top markers.
Rockfax Description
An old classic which is a daunting prospect. Good rope work, plenty of extenders and a balanced team are required since it is not one for a timid second.
1) 5b, 25m. Climb up the groove to the chimney above, and continue to an overhang - possible belay in a slot cave to reduce drag. Climb out and traverse leftwards, to gain the base of a small chimney. Move up to belay.
3) 5c, 20m. Move up to the big roof above, then traverse strenuously leftwards until beneath a flared crack. Battle your way up this feature to reach a scoop. Go right around the top roof to finish. © Rockfax
FA. P.Littlejohn, C.King 03/May/1978.
Ticklists
The Best of Pembroke , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Andy Stewart2 | 17 Sep, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Packs most of a day's climbing into 2 pitches. Looked awesome and inspiring watching from Mowingword as Fiona and Tristan climbed it the previous day...so we headed over the next day. Intimidating place, with a few things to juggle, namely tides, potential sliminess without drying sun/wind and scorchio in full sun. An E2 leader's worst nightmare! Prussiks definitely recommended, along with a competent second on pitch 2. I found the move up from the traverse into the groove/crack tricky and managed to grate a layer of skin off my shoulder whilst thrutching around trying to reach the obvious good hold to get established. Take plenty of extendable draws-a broddler was useful for threading one. There was no way we were doing Puritan after this, so we sought the sanctuary of shade on Mowingword East! | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Packs most of a day's climbing into 2 pitches. Looked awesome and inspiring watching from Mowingword as Fiona and Tristan climbed it the previous day...so we headed over the next day. Intimidating place, with a few things to juggle, namely tides, potential sliminess without drying sun/wind and scorchio in full sun. An E2 leader's worst nightmare! Prussiks definitely recommended, along with a competent second on pitch 2. I found the move up from the traverse into the groove/crack tricky and managed to grate a layer of skin off my shoulder whilst thrutching around trying to reach the obvious good hold to get established. Take plenty of extendable draws-a broddler was useful for threading one. There was no way we were doing Puritan after this, so we sought the sanctuary of shade on Mowingword East! |
||||
| Misha | 3 Aug, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: If the tide is pressing, there is a decent hanging belay on threads at the bottom of the first chimney / mini cave. Should also be possible to belay in the second chimney / larger cave. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: If the tide is pressing, there is a decent hanging belay on threads at the bottom of the first chimney / mini cave. Should also be possible to belay in the second chimney / larger cave. |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stackpole Head
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Deep Throat
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Triple Overhang Buttress)