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Pair of kestrels are nesting above the trident block. Please avoid the route during this period.

from 14/06/2023 to 01/07/2023

 
18m.

Rockfax Description
A great climb up the long groove that is the main feature of the right-hand side of the cliff. A steep initial section leads to a block (the Pulpit) at the foot of the superb curving crack. This can be laybacked by Philistines, the rest of us revel in the quality of the finger and hand-jamming. Protection is bomber throughout. Possibly the best route of its grade in the Peak. © Rockfax

FA. L Kiernan 1937. Route name changed (Changed back from 1 to I).

Ticklists

BMC On-Peak Rock: Jamming tests , ROCKFAX Western Grit: Top 50 , Connoisseur's Classic Rock , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , 50 Best HS Routes in the UK. , World Graded List , Moorland Grit - The Essential Selection (Over The Moors) , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Proper Cracks UK , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , 100 Best Routes on Grit , Enchain your hearts ????? , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3

Feedback

User Date Notes
shaun walby 13 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Thoughly enjoyable, stress free climbing...perfect sunday climbing stuff the walk up might help the headache as well
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Thoughly enjoyable, stress free climbing...perfect sunday climbing stuff the walk up might help the headache as well
The old James turnbull 3 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: enjoyed it and was ok even when quite green.long walk when your hung over and dropping my belay brack down the crack at the top made this the only route we could do.good job the bouldering below was so good!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: enjoyed it and was ok even when quite green.long walk when your hung over and dropping my belay brack down the crack at the top made this the only route we could do.good job the bouldering below was so good!
Nick Smith - Climbers 13 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Simply superb. Where else could you find a 3-star route of this grade on grit that isn't polished?!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Simply superb. Where else could you find a 3-star route of this grade on grit that isn't polished?!

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 77
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 72
Votes cast 77
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Nasal Buttress

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Dovestones Edge)

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