Restricted Access

The north side of the Gorge is predominantly owned by the National Trust and mapped as Open Access land under the CRoW Act which give a right of access for climbers to use these crags all year. The Cheddar Gorge Access Map gives full details of climbing access throughout the Gorge.

The map references the latest guide to the Gorge - 'Cheddar Gorge Climbs' (M. Crocker, 2015), which has details of the popular crags on the north side and definitive details of restored routes on the south side. It is available from The Gorge Outdoors shop in Cheddar village, as well as other climbing and outdoor shops in the area.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Dogs should be kept under control on a lead at any crags on the north side of the Gorge.

The National Trust require any new bolting to be cleared with them first - please contact the BMC Access Team if you are considering any bolting work and so we can help in any approach to the Trust.

20m. Indirect but great climbing all the way. Start up House Burning Down. Do a hard move to the incut holds and half rest on the rail out right. Make another hard move at the fifth bolt of HBD to stand on the rail. Thin technical moves allow you to shuffle your feet in a traverse left along the rail to a big step onto the cracked rail of Sing a Mean Toon, Kid. Finish up the slappy crux of SAMTK. In need of another bolt to protect the traverse left into SAMTK: clipping the fifth bolt of HBD will create rope drag problems and won’t protect the traverse. Better to ignore the fifth bolt and prep the route by hanging a long quickdraw off a 120 cm sling from the only independent bolt of Burning Ambition (up from and slightly left of the sixth bolt of HBD): this will be effective in protecting the traverse while avoiding rope drag.

Ally Smith 2006.

Ticklists

7Cs with stars near Bristol

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Voting
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 12
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Onsighted
Route of Interest
Smashing of Amps

Grade: 7c+ ***
(Split Rock (Milton Hill Quarry))

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