Rockfax Description
The thin twisting cracks in the side-wall give a technical and sustained pitch to a good rest which gives you time to psych up for the tricky mantelshelf finale. © Rockfax
FA. Gabe Regan 1975.
Ticklists
The Roaches - Routes Graded List , Hardish grit routes that have good gear but aren't staminafests , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age , The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza , Definitive *** Peak Grit , The List , On Peak Rock , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jmpollard | 11 Oct, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Stepped fully onto the rest ledge out right, means you can reach some small holds up and right making the move rocking up into the scoop a dream rather than a lanky nightmare. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Stepped fully onto the rest ledge out right, means you can reach some small holds up and right making the move rocking up into the scoop a dream rather than a lanky nightmare. |
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| Aly | 16 Sep, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Where on earth does 6a come from? Steady crack with good gear and then an airy 5c rockover to finish after a hands-off rest. Bog standard E3 if you ask me. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Where on earth does 6a come from? Steady crack with good gear and then an airy 5c rockover to finish after a hands-off rest. Bog standard E3 if you ask me. |
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| UKB Shark | 6 Mar, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Faffed around on this quite a bit before commiting as it is not immediately clear where to go. Standing immediately to the right of the crack and going direct then rocking back left was the way I went. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Faffed around on this quite a bit before commiting as it is not immediately clear where to go. Standing immediately to the right of the crack and going direct then rocking back left was the way I went. |
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| Ricardo | 13 Feb, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: No mention of the direct finish left from the top of the crack by a hard (6b?) slopey finish | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: No mention of the direct finish left from the top of the crack by a hard (6b?) slopey finish |
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| Jon Greengrass | 17 Jun, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: I toproped this and found the flakey cracks, brilliantly engrossing and sustained. but you get a no hands rest on the ledge. I tried finishing direct up from here (good nut at the top of the crack?) but the holds are tiny and the footwork very delicate. Stepping left and mantling was much easier just a bit commiting. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I toproped this and found the flakey cracks, brilliantly engrossing and sustained. but you get a no hands rest on the ledge. I tried finishing direct up from here (good nut at the top of the crack?) but the holds are tiny and the footwork very delicate. Stepping left and mantling was much easier just a bit commiting. |
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| mark s | 27 Mar, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: did this tonight,quite pumpy and tricky,also wet at the bottom of the crack,more like e3/4 6a | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: did this tonight,quite pumpy and tricky,also wet at the bottom of the crack,more like e3/4 6a |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Roaches Lower Tier
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Appaloosa Sunset
Grade: E3 5c ***
(The Five Clouds)