20m.

Rockfax Description
The ever-leaning crack in the left-hand side of the gully would be a mega-classic in a more open setting. Here it is well-named, moody and magnificent. Jam the never-ending series of overhangs to the great boulder blocking the rift then make a tricky traverse left to a difficult exit where big fists sure help. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown 1958.

Ticklists

The Roaches - Routes Graded List , Gritstone's finest gruesome and damaging struggles , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , Tom Randall's Classic Hand cracks , Staffordshire Grit Challenge - Brown-Whillans Day Out , Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade , WideBoyz Crack School , Michelle's crack ticklist , Proper Cracks UK , An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District , Post-lockdown Peak jamming hoedown , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Tom's crack funtimes , Hardest E1s on grit , Misery Mondays

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User Date Notes
Graeme Hammond 18 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Finishing right is a cop out, true finish exits left and is the crux of the route. Back around!
βeta?
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βeta: Finishing right is a cop out, true finish exits left and is the crux of the route. Back around!
paul mitchell 2 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Thought is was E2/3, 5C. Nearly fell off.
βeta?
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βeta: Thought is was E2/3, 5C. Nearly fell off.
Tom Randall - Lattice Training 9 Sep, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: One of my favourites. Absolutely brilliant, despite its dirt and gloom. Lots of character!
βeta?
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βeta: One of my favourites. Absolutely brilliant, despite its dirt and gloom. Lots of character!
pdhu 1 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: There was a grim, dark, dreek place; and there lived fierceness and brutalization. Utterly bloody brilliant though. Tetanus shots advised.
βeta?
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βeta: There was a grim, dark, dreek place; and there lived fierceness and brutalization. Utterly bloody brilliant though. Tetanus shots advised.
sutty 20 Feb, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: i thought I saw the FA of this route, It may have been Brown repeating it but morty definitely followed brown up it, in the dark cursing that he couldn\'t see any holds. All the Rock and ice were there, a good bouldering session was held with Roscoe and big Ally Taylor doing the most..Audrey whillans will have dons records of if he did it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: i thought I saw the FA of this route, It may have been Brown repeating it but morty definitely followed brown up it, in the dark cursing that he couldn't see any holds. All the Rock and ice were there, a good bouldering session was held with Roscoe and big Ally Taylor doing the most..Audrey whillans will have dons records of if he did it.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Roaches Lower Tier

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 29
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 28
Votes cast 28
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Hawkwing

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Roaches Lower Tier)

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