There have been serious problems here in the past but access appears less problematic providing climbers keep a low profile. The quarries are owned by Gwynedd Council who make it clear that there is no offical access due to public safety reasons - there are high fences and signs prohibiting access, but there have not been any reports of practical access problems for many years.
In early 2017 planning permisson was granted for a new hydro-electric power station on the site. When works starts on this (unkknow time-scale) its likley that access to some of the quarries will be permenently lost, especially to Mancer and Film Set Quarries as these will become flooded to produce a holding reservoir.
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
- Due to nesting Peregrines and Choughs (both species have legal protection under the Wildlife & Countryside Act), some climbing in the Gideon Quarry (all routes on Gideon Terrace and Cracking up areas) is restricted from March 1st until the end of June.
Rockfax Description
One of the new wave of super sport routes of exceptional quality on perfect granite-esque dolerite. It has four distinct cruxes - apparently a bit like a 7a+ version of The Plum at Tremadog. Abseil down The Bone People with a 60m rope and swing in to the bottom of the route. The route has been equipped with an intermediate abseil anchor so that it is possible to climb on a single 50m rope with some careful ropework. The lower slab suffers from seepage and it would be a good idea to take a brush. Start at the base of a narrow ramp/groove behind the huge boulder. Climbing up the ramp/groove to a hard move leftwards across the top of the slab. Pull through the roof and traverse back right. Technical moves lead to a blind reach above the roof. Make a sideways dyno to a jug, then move up the rib and the slab towards an overlap. Difficult moves through this lead to delicate climbing left across the upper slab until below the final groove. A final long reach and a stiff pull if you are tall, or more technical climbing for the short, leads to a bolted abseil anchor. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A superb long sport route with good varied climbing on solid dolerite. 4 cruxes and interesting until the last move. Start at the base of a narrow ramp/groove next to the giant boulder to the left of Bone People. Abseil off, route is equipped with an intermediate ab anchor for climbing on a single 50m rope.
Pete Harrison 21/May/2010.
All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 7a & 7a+ , Llanberis Slate *** Routes , North wales 7a+
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Grade: 7a+ ***
(Twll Mawr)