Restricted Access

The National Trust own the crag and whilst it’s not on open access land with a right of access, the Trust kindly allow public access for climbers, on the condition that we look after the crag. Here are some simple tips to help you enjoy your visit, look after the area and make sure we retain access for the future.

  • Be considerate and aware that we share this quiet dale with other users. Anglers by the river, walkers and local residents all value this place for its peaceful setting so keep a lid on shouting or screaming.
  • Parking is a serious issue here - see the 'parking and approach' section below for detailed advice.
  • Van camping and biving at the crag has increasingly caused friction with locals over the last few years and is now strongly discouraged. It’s very noticeable in the dale and there are places much better suited to this so head elsewhere.
  • Toileting in the area around the crag is also becoming more of a problem and its crucial that climbers minimise their impact to avoid future access problems. Don’t be tempted to use the bushes – use the public toilets at Millers Dale station a very short trip away. If you can’t do that, carry a ‘wag bag’ and pack out all human waste and toilet paper. This special place deserves better than a minefield of human poo around it.
  • Normal practice now is to remove quickdraws at the end of the day and not to leave overnight. Though leaving in-situ draws is common practice on other crags around the world, here, locals have objected.  
  • Keeping the crag and surrounding area litter free is a good way of showing others that climbers care. Take everything home with you including litter you find to dispose of responsibly.
  • Over use of chalk might not look like much to climbers, but it can be an unwelcome intrusion to others. Make sure you clean off tick marks and brush excess chalk off holds at the end of your session.
  • Be vigilant for loose rock. Even on well established lines bits still do drop off, especially higher up on the crag.
  • Some of the routes have high first bolts, a clipstick or a well placed pad may save a twisted ankle (or worse).
22m.

Rockfax Description
A poor route which sees little attention. It has lost holds and become harder. Span left from the start of Tin Of and climb the wall to join it at the end of its traverse left. © Rockfax

FA. Malcolm Taylor 1995.

Ticklists

UK 8a and up

Feedback

User Date Notes
Haydn Jones 19 Nov, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: I was able to span the reach at 5ft 11. didn't fancy being any shorter though!
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βeta: I was able to span the reach at 5ft 11. didn't fancy being any shorter though!
teddy 25 Jul, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Oh and the grade? Soft to middling 8a - you don't get many one finger sidepulls on 7c+'s!
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βeta: Oh and the grade? Soft to middling 8a - you don't get many one finger sidepulls on 7c+'s!
teddy 25 Jul, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Nice route - snatchy wall climbing on small sidepulls. If less than 6'2" its still possible to reach the flake without dropping down onto the crimps and going the long way round (a desparate sequence). Instead, crimp a tiny one finger sidepull intermediate with the right hand and slap into the flake with your left.
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βeta: Nice route - snatchy wall climbing on small sidepulls. If less than 6'2" its still possible to reach the flake without dropping down onto the crimps and going the long way round (a desparate sequence). Instead, crimp a tiny one finger sidepull intermediate with the right hand and slap into the flake with your left.
Jon Barton 6 Aug, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: recently climbed this route, for anyone less than six foot you will have to climb left out of the lower jugs on tin off, feet level with Rooster Booster break, and then climb crimps upto flake - excellent sequence and soft touch 8a. otherwise it is a crucifix move from just below Tin Of crux to reach same flake.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: recently climbed this route, for anyone less than six foot you will have to climb left out of the lower jugs on tin off, feet level with Rooster Booster break, and then climb crimps upto flake - excellent sequence and soft touch 8a. otherwise it is a crucifix move from just below Tin Of crux to reach same flake.

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High 8a+
Mid 8a+
Low 8a+
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
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Votes cast 4
Route of Interest
Unleashing the Wild Physique

Grade: 8a ***
(Chee Dale Lower)

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