Restricted Access

The National Trust own the crag and whilst it’s not on open access land with a right of access, the Trust kindly allow public access for climbers, on the condition that we look after the crag. Here are some simple tips to help you enjoy your visit, look after the area and make sure we retain access for the future.

  • Be considerate and aware that we share this quiet dale with other users. Anglers by the river, walkers and local residents all value this place for its peaceful setting so keep a lid on shouting or screaming.
  • Parking is a serious issue here - see the 'parking and approach' section below for detailed advice.
  • Van camping and biving at the crag has increasingly caused friction with locals over the last few years and is now strongly discouraged. It’s very noticeable in the dale and there are places much better suited to this so head elsewhere.
  • Toileting in the area around the crag is also becoming more of a problem and its crucial that climbers minimise their impact to avoid future access problems. Don’t be tempted to use the bushes – use the public toilets at Millers Dale station a very short trip away. If you can’t do that, carry a ‘wag bag’ and pack out all human waste and toilet paper. This special place deserves better than a minefield of human poo around it.
  • Normal practice now is to remove quickdraws at the end of the day and not to leave overnight. Though leaving in-situ draws is common practice on other crags around the world, here, locals have objected.  
  • Keeping the crag and surrounding area litter free is a good way of showing others that climbers care. Take everything home with you including litter you find to dispose of responsibly.
  • Over use of chalk might not look like much to climbers, but it can be an unwelcome intrusion to others. Make sure you clean off tick marks and brush excess chalk off holds at the end of your session.
  • Be vigilant for loose rock. Even on well established lines bits still do drop off, especially higher up on the crag.
  • Some of the routes have high first bolts, a clipstick or a well placed pad may save a twisted ankle (or worse).
25m.

Rockfax Description
One of the more popular hard routes at the Tor. There are several methods to pull around the bottom roof - all are hard and powerful. Some lower off at the first break above the roof for an 8a tick, but the wall above is superb and considerably easier (7c), to finish at a lower-off in a scoop. © Rockfax

FA. Andy Pollitt 1986. The initial roof had a huge block on it which made the route much easier. Reclimbed in 1990 by Ben Moon after this block had fallen off..

Ticklists

World Graded List , Peak Rock/15/The Dawn of Sport:A Bolt From the Blue , Peak limestone north graded list - sport , UK 8a and up , Definitive *** Peak Lime , The Festival Of Shite , Sportland , Power of Climbing

Feedback

User Date Notes
Boy 16 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Now reaches the belay via an extra bolt and a straight up continuation where it used to trav left, trav left when level with the belay. Still 8a+ this way. Very loose flake needs gluing midway up headwall.
Show beta
βeta: Now reaches the belay via an extra bolt and a straight up continuation where it used to trav left, trav left when level with the belay. Still 8a+ this way. Very loose flake needs gluing midway up headwall.

Logged Ascents

98 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Raven Tor (Miller's Dale)

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 48 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 8b
Mid 8b
Low 8b
High 8a+
Mid 8a+
Low 8a+
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
Votes cast 32
Votes cast 28
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Pistol Fingers

Grade: 8a+ ***
(Long Tor Quarry)

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